Antarctica is a very special place. Everything about it extends our senses to the limit. The sights, the sounds, even the smells and, of course, the temperatures.

As the plane touches down on the ice after a long flight, you can palpably sense the excitement and anticipation of all the occupants of the cargo-hold of the Royal New Zealand Air Force C-130 Hercules. As the hold-door opens, and the cool dry air rushes in, you see the smiles of people – both new and experienced to the ice – get larger, as they look forward to a season of adventure, hard work, seeing old friends, and making new ones.

Antarctic ‘old hands’, Jim Karner (L, 10 Antarctic field seasons), John Schutt (36 seasons), Brian Rougeux (5 seasons), and Barb Cohen (R, 4 seasons) at the base of Castle Rock.

The Antarctic Treaty, first signed in 1959 and that now includes 53 signatory countries, was written to ensure that this, the most isolated continent on Earth, is kept for peaceful purposes. The treaty also allows for the freedom of scientific investigation in Antarctica. As we disembark the C-130 in our ‘Big Red’ Parkas and ‘Bunny Boots’, resembling giant Penguins, we remember our role here, to do science and to protect this most unique of environments.

At this point, in my first blog post, I would like to thank Scott and Julianne, who are doing a great job of sharing the ANSMET 2017/2018 journey. So far, so good; I hope that you are enjoying reading their stories as much as we are on the team! The rest of the team, including Ioannis Baziotis, Barbara Cohen, Jim Karner, Brian Rougeux, John Schutt and myself are all in good health and even better spirits.

A release of gas from the phonolite lava lake within the cone of 3794 m Mt. Erebus dwarfs Skidoos and sleds on the drive through ‘Windless Bight’.

The first thing that is noticeable about life in McMurdo, which is the main US base on the Antarctic continent, is how quickly time seems to go. The food here is good, so time compression invariably means initially overly-generous portions and the feeling of only having just eaten, after every meal.

The time compression also comes from the important preparation our mountaineers, John Schutt and Brian Rougeux, guide us through. These range from various lectures and classes, to the logistical challenges of getting eight people into the field with enough food, supplies and shelter to effectively collect meteorites. We have been very busy!

Of course, after a few days there is some down-time. We’ve done some exploring, visiting the Ob Tube to hear the magical sounds of the Weddell Seals beneath the ice, biking to Williams (‘Willy’) Field using a ‘fat tire’ snow bike, or paying a visit to Hut Point and Observation Hill.

Simulating meteorite collection. Julianne slides to the floor in excitement over the discovery of a synthetic cometary meteorite during the ‘Shake Down’, as Jim (right), Brian, Barb, Scott and Ioannis (L) look on.

Both latter excursions give the sense of pilgrimage. On Observation Hill stands the cross dedicated to Robert Falcon Scott and the party that made the fatal journey from the South Pole in 1912. On the cross is the line from the Alfred Tennyson poem “Ulysses”, which I used as the caption for this blog. The views from ‘Ob Hill’ are spectacular and it is a fitting tribute to some of the early explorers of this magical place.

At the end of Hut Point lies the Discovery Hut. This venerable building was erected in 1902 and was used by the British National Antarctic Expedition, various British Antarctic Expeditions and the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition as both living space or as storage. The hut was transferred to Ross Island and put together like a kit. Remarkably, after 115 years, the blue painted numbers used to fabricate the hut are still visible.

Alone, on a small hill behind the Discovery Hut, stands ‘Vince’s Cross’. In March 1902, George Vince became the first man to lose his life in McMurdo Sound. Wearing fur-soled boots with little grip, Vince wandered onto a snow slope and slipped down, falling over the cliff. His body was never recovered. Antarctica is a very special place and I am very humbled and honoured to be here to take part in science.

Building of the Discovery Hut involved the use of pre-fabricated pieces that were nailed together when the hut was shipped to Hut Point.

–Posted by James from the Hut Point Peninsula on 2017-12-06 at 15.45 local